04-23-2011 06:28 PM
I have a Toshiba 42HL196 LCD TV. It was giving this light pattern, which the manual said meant that it was "rebooting". The Repair Tech (his company was recommended by Toshiba) said that it was in the Seine Board. It wasn't. I found a repair kit of 3 IC chips for ~$35 including shipping. Unfortunately, it didn't come with any instructions and I could only find where 2 of the 3 chips went. So I found another TV Repair company. He used the IC Chip, with 5 leads, and had my TV working within 20 minutes.
06-07-2011 08:09 AM
Another victim for 3 blinks of the TIMER REC light on a Toshiba 42LX196. Where can I get the repair kit? -- Seems that this is a common, recurring Toshiba 42 inch TV problem, maybe Toshiba should be providing a fix, or at least instructions on how to do it.
06-07-2011 10:34 AM
Did some searching on other websites. Looks like the culprit is integrated circuit Q880 #23135089, part number of IC is STR-W6765. It is attached to a heat sink and soldered onto the power supply circuit board (upper right hand corner as viewed from back of TV). Requires removing the back and removing the circuit board. I ordered the part from Amazon (<$15). Hopefully this will fix the problem.
06-10-2011 02:05 PM
Received the STR-W6765 part today (Q880 component), soldered it to the circuit board (with some thermal paste to the heat sink), and voila, it works! And a bonus, even the TV Guide is now working (it had stopped working months ago).
10-12-2011 06:31 PM
I have this same problem...can you tell me where I can get instructions on how to do this? How long of a process is this? Thank you for the picture. It really helped.
Also, can you buy the part from Toshiba? I tried Amazon, but all I am getting is Motorola phone chargers.
10-15-2011 12:10 PM
hi to everyone..i have a 32wlt68 toshiba..the tv is not turning on,and the red button is on...what can i do?
the problem is in the power board(v28a000177a1)? or something else?
04-08-2012 07:36 AM
Hi All, I also have the power problem with the 3 blinks, etc. I received a kit and installed one of the three IC chips received - the large one - no part number on it but has a metal back that sits against the heat sink. While soldering the chip in, I noticed that I could not solder one lead in. On closer inspection, I found that the silver ring around the hole where the lead fits is missing. Solder cannot hold and I am not sure any contact is being made. Is there anything I can do to repair this or ensure a connection is made to the circuit board? I feel like a dummy asking this question. Thanks for your help!
04-16-2013 08:28 AM
PSU Reg fix worked for me. However during post-fix burn in, I noticed a slight intermittent electrical "crackle" coming from this component and the heatsink was way too hot to touch. Not sure if this fix will last.
Need: Replacement part, thermal paste, thin metal shim (spark plug gap sizer is perfect), fine electrical snips, fine electrical pliers or tweezers, fine-tip soldering iron, flux, rosin solder, fine flux brush, marker pen, magnifying glass.
Turn off and unplug the TV, leave it overnight for capacitors to discharge.
Work in a static-free environment (no carpet underfoot).
(See the photos posted upthread.)
1. Lay the TV on a flat stable surface and remove all the rear cover screws (2 types of screw, all marked with an arrow).
2. Remove the mount attachment plate.
3. Unplug the 6 connectors, marking them so you know where to replace them
4. Remove the PSU board. (You should work on a flat, anti-static surface such as a countertop). The board is heavy and hard to manipulat. I used a carpenter's wood clamp that has soft rubber jaws to clamp the large heatsink and hold the board upright to work on. An extra pair of hands helps.
5. Remove the screw that holds the regulator to the heatsink.
6. The white thermal paste has probably cooked and glued the Regulator to the heatsink. Try to pop it off with a thin metal shim. It might nead a light tap with a small hammer.
7. Unsolder the heatsink's 4 tabs and remove it from the printed circuit board (PCB).
8. Snip the 6 leads on the old, defective Regulator, leaving just enough to grip with fine pliers or tweezers.
9. Unsolder each lead, pulling it out from the component side of the board with tweezers or fine pliers. Do not push through, or you might damage the fine copper traces on the PCB.
10. Carefully clean up the solder so the 5 smallest holes are open. There is a diode soldered adjacent to one hole, sharing a large blob of solder with one lead of the Regulator. Don't try to clean out that hole - that is the one you solder first.
11. Test-fit your replacement Regulator, bending the 6 legs to align with the holes in the PCB. Notice that you do not have a lot of room - you will need small amounts of solder. Make sure you have it the right orientation to align with the heatsink.
IMPORTANT: When you solder in, do not push the Regulator far down onto the board. You want only a tiny amount of each lead showing on the solder side. Otherwise, the hole in the regulator will not align properly with the hole in the heatsink.
12. Apply a small amount of flux to the solder side, wiping off the excess with a paper towel.
13. Insert the Regulator, and starting with the lead adjacent to the diode, solder each lead in turn.
14. Make sure that the solder does not bridge the gap - you should be able to see the white marks on the PCB that show the gap between each lead.
15. (Optional) At this point, I checked continuity between each lead on the Regulator to the next component on the board.
16. Apply a blob of thermal paste to the back of the regulator.
17. Solder the heatsink back onto the PCB.
18. Screw the Regulator to the Heatsink. Do not overtighten. A small amount of paste will ooze out frm the sides.
19. Replace the board in the TV chassis and reassemble.
20. Power-up the TV.
06-24-2014 07:46 AM
I know it has been a while since this thread showed up, but I recently acquired a 42HL196. Replaced power cord, tv lit up instantly. Turned it off, put the back on, and plugged it back in. Nothing. Flashing LED 3 times on front. On plugin, heard a single click followed by two ALMOST simultaneous clicks.
Searched, and found this thread - Ordered part STRW6765 and replaced. Now, when plugged in, I get one click with flashing LED 3 times. Is this indicative of another issue, or could it be a bad soldering job on the STRW 6765?
Any help is appreciated.
08-18-2014 10:24 PM
Thank you so much for the advice and taking the time to post it. I ordered the recommended part online, followed the guidance provided, and Walhalla, my television is working!
09-06-2014 07:28 PM
*Should've* read your note a few more times before I started unsoldering.
Started with a 30w soldering iron which is not hot enough to remove the leads, not to mention the big blob.
Bought a new 60w iron, removed the heatsink and the 6 leads. But can't solder it back on - the solder just wont stick to the board side - may have been over-underheated then oxided by the 30w iron.
Any suggestions how to get thd chip back on the board? Or did I destroy the board?
11-10-2014 01:05 PM - edited 11-10-2014 01:13 PM
Replacing only one regulator is not recommended. Toshiba recommends replacing all three regulators
This is Not a job for beginners and amatuers. Improper installation technique Will damage these regulators. This is a difficult job for a pro of 38 years, like myself. The instructions above are deceiving and dangerous in thinking anyone can do this type of work without prior skills.
Call a Pro if you are not a veteran technician.
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